For those of us that weren't familiar with modest fashion prior to moving to the Kingdom, figuring out how to combine our personal style with the unwritten rules and dress codes in Saudi Arabia can be challenging to navigate at best, stressful and anxiety inducing at worst. I decided to finally tackle it and write a comprehensive guide on how I approach the topic.
There is a big difference between what Saudi women wear and how foreigners dress. There is even a difference between what locals and expat muslim women wear. Saudi women often choose a niqab to cover their face, while a lot of muslim expat women opt to wear a hijab and abaya or similar to cover their hair and body whereas some of us Westerners eventually decide to hang up our everyday abayas as we become more confident and comfortable with the culture and customs.
No Need to Cover up From Head to Toe
One of the most prevalent misconceptions about Saudi Arabia is the outdated view that it's compulsory for all women to cover their face and hair or wear an abaya when going outside.
Women nowadays have a lot more freedom to decide what to wear and we can no longer be legally stopped for not conforming to the traditions of dressing very conservatively.
As a blonde Western woman I know I won't blend in but I seldom feel uncomfortable and I'm no longer self-conscious when I have to leave the house or go to an area less frequented by expats, but I always actively try to avoid attracting unwanted attention.
Saudi is constantly changing, but it's still advisable to remain modest and cover arms, legs and chest and avoid overly tight fitting clothing when leaving the house, out of respect for local tradition and customs.
Any Colour Goes
There's always a sea of black niqabs in public places, but women, especially foreigners, are not at all expected to conform to wearing this traditional garment. I even notice more and more muslim women (primarily from younger generations) choosing to wear fashion forward, intricately adorned or colourful abayas.
Creams and pastels appear to be very popular, but when the Barbie movie came out in August, I frequently spotted groups of young girls in coordinated pink outfits as well. There is no limits to what colours women are allowed to wear.
Let's take a moment to praise the abaya
"celebrate the abaya as a garment of style and modesty much like the kimono and sari [...] with Japanese and Indian cultures. In my view, the abaya is a garment of expression rather than of oppression." - Farheen Allsopp
Abayas are basically a cheat code to always looking appropriate and stylish. They're perfect for layering over t-shirts or vests or more tight fitting clothing. They're not practical with shorts as the bottom is open to help facilitate movement. Depending on the setting and occasion most of the time I no longer wear an abaya when leaving the house, however, I always have one in the car just in case. And when I want to immediately elevate my look, I just throw one on and off I go.
Abayas come in an endless variety of fabrics, all colours of the rainbow and intricate patterns such as embroidery or tulle details so women don't have to compromise their personal style and restrict self expression while staying modest and respectful. There are abayas with pockets, zippers, or buttons, adorned with rhinestones or tassels. Trends also change from one season to another and can even be different in each region. For example, places like AlUla and Jeddah tend to be more relaxed and as such also more colourful. Open abayas appear to be more common, whereas Saudi/muslim women in Riyadh usually stick to black.
There are entire malls in the capital filled with abaya shops so everyone can find at least one to suit their preference and budget. Luxury brands like Gucci release their own takes on the traditional abaya for Ramadan. There are plenty of talented, young aspiring Saudi designers rethinking how women wear the abaya. Here's an article from Bazaar Arabia on the trendiest Saudi abaya designers. I love spotting different styles when out and about. Because abayas can be incorporated in any wardrobe, they also make a great souvenir.
The Rules Don't Apply to Western Compounds
Nothing I mentioned here about covering up or dressing modestly is applicable in a Western style compound setting. These are usually reserved exclusively for expat living and Saudis will seldom enter unless doing business or attending a special event. It's a safe space to wear whatever you want, including beach wear by the pool, shorts, mini skirts and dresses. Some compounds will go as far as to actually request women to remove their face covering while on their premises.
Top Tips on What to Wear During the Hot Summer Months
Natural fabrics are key to staying as comfortable as possible when the temperatures soar as high as 50ºC/120F in Riyadh. I love pure cotton, silk and cotton blend, linen – they are breathable, lightweight and comfortable. Linen is especially versatile as it can be dressed up or down and it suits relaxed or loose fitting styles so well. Unfortunately, it's not as easy to find products made of organic materials as it is in Europe. Clothing sold in high street shops in the region is primarily made of synthetic fabrics such as viscose and polyester, but the demand for natural fabrics is definitely gaining traction. One of my favourite brands that carry great quality cotton and linen clothes in a good variety of styles is COS.
Lately more and more women feel comfortable wearing short sleeve tops and bottoms that go just below the knee, and it's no longer an uncommon sight in Riyadh to see primarily expat women with their arms uncovered. I personally prefer at least a 3/4 sleeve, but I'd often roll up my shirt sleeve to just under my elbow.
During high Summer I still keep layering in mind when I leave the house. I primarily wear jumpsuits, flowy midi or maxi dresses or vests with higher necklines paired with trousers/long skirts and a button-up shirt or lightweight long sleeve cardigan/sweater on top such as this one. A second layer also helps to avoid catching a cold in the always heavily air-conditioned indoor areas.
Co-ordinated loungewear- or resort-type outfits (like this one or this one, for example) are also popular. They're playful and comfortable – think pyjamas, but fashion. Satin, jacquard or similar tops with matching bottoms are an easy and stylish option that can be dressed up or down.
Formal Dressing and Workwear
When it comes to business or business casual attire in an office setting, Riyadh doesn't differ much from the West.
The advice around not showing too much skin and avoiding low necklines and very tight fitting clothing remain.
I personally love trouser suit combinations. They're a modern classic, practical, elegant and convey professionalism.
For a more casual environment long shirt dresses are another good option. These can be dressed up or down and styled in different ways to suit any style preference.
I touched on the heavy air-conditioning indoors already, so choosing the right fabrication and layering is important.
Learn Your Size
I was surprised to learn that a lot of stores don't have fitting rooms. Although more and more malls introduce them, it's still not uncommon to be unable to try on clothes before buying. In-store returns and exchanges are also often more restrictive than in Europe and vary from store to store, therefore it's useful to know the sizing for your preferred brands.
What Happens if I Break the Dress Code?
As an expat or tourist, there are absolutely no consequences to breaking the rules. You may get stares as locals aren't used to this, or at worst you might be denied entry to mosques, other religious or very conservative places but there aren't any religious or moral authorities to officially tell you off.
In light of the above, I hope I managed to convince you that it's absolutely possible to stay true to your unique personal style. I now offer complementary style analysis and consultations to help women find the balance between being able to express themselves through clothing while staying respectful to the traditions and adhering to the customs of modest dressing in the Kingdom. Head over to The Wardrobe Analyst to find out more and follow on Instagram for more tips.